Il Palio!!! What can I say but simply amazing… (in a crazy kind of way). We headed off on the bus to Siena at about 10.30 stopping to take in a couple of the sights and buying the flag of a certain Contrada (I chose the wolf) before reserving our places near the front railing at the corner where apparently everyone falls and waiting (this involved taking shifts at eating, going to the toilet, buying drinks etc…) Waiting took quite a while, although the atmosphere in the square as it slowly filled till it was packed and the police locked everyone in the Campo was electric. The pomp and pageantry of the pre-race parade was amazing, with “representatives” of all the guilds marching, flag throwers, warriors and the racehorse of all the Contrada marching before finally the Palium (the prize for the winner which is only a silk banner) came out at the end pulled by these huge ox!!!
The Parade is a lively display of rich, brightly coloured medieval costumes which date back to the 1400s. The procession winds around the racetrack with the flag-bearer of the Commune oh horseback bearing the standard of Siena, followed by his groom, a group of drummers, trumpeters and musicions (the Musici di Palazzo). These are followed by the Captains, the representatives of the “Podestà”, the flag bearers with the standards of the “Terzieri” of the town and land, the flag-bearers of the Corporations of the Arts and Crafts, the capitain of the people on horseback and a group of flag-bear ers with flags of the old Sienese Republic. Next were the representatives of each “Contrada” (the first 10 are the ones running in the race_ which are followed by a row of pages bearing the festoons of laurel leaves and then by the seven Contrade that don’t run. Finally, the triumphal chariot drawn by huge oxen which carries the four “Provveditori di Biccherna” along with the oriflamme of the Commune, the Palio and a group of trumpeters.When finally the parade finished (took about 3 hours I think) and after a couple of punch ups behind us… (involving something about Contrada loyalties… the Sienese are incredibly passionate about the race and their Contradas) the race was almost ready to start. Nothing like the Melbourne cup, it took 3 false starts and a lot of pushing and shoving (supposedly where last-minute bargains a
re made) before the race was finally underway. The race was finally won by the Goose Contrada, but not without dramas… The Shell horse was a close second (which is considered losing) and 3 horses finished (or didn’t quite make it across the finishing line deciding at the last corner that running in a circle 3 times was quite a stupid idea) having lost their riders in the 1st 2 laps. As we rushed back towards the buses back to Florence, we had to navigate seas of cheering, jubilant residents of the Goose Contrada, as well as the crying and angry residents of other contrada, making quite an intimidating atmosphere…
re made) before the race was finally underway. The race was finally won by the Goose Contrada, but not without dramas… The Shell horse was a close second (which is considered losing) and 3 horses finished (or didn’t quite make it across the finishing line deciding at the last corner that running in a circle 3 times was quite a stupid idea) having lost their riders in the 1st 2 laps. As we rushed back towards the buses back to Florence, we had to navigate seas of cheering, jubilant residents of the Goose Contrada, as well as the crying and angry residents of other contrada, making quite an intimidating atmosphere…
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